THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
THE CLASSES OF PLANTS, AND
LISTS - Continued
In distinction from the mixed or non-homogeneous flowerbed are the
various forms of "bedding," in which plants are massed for the purpose
of making a connected and homogeneous bold display of form or color. The
bedding may be for the purpose of producing a strong effect of white, of
blue, or of red; or of ribbon-like lines and edgings; or of luxurious
and tropical expression; or to display boldly the features of a
particular plant, as the tulip, the hyacinth, the chrysanthemum.
In ribbon-bedding, flowering or foliage plants are arranged in
ribbon-like lines of harmoniously contrasting colors, commonly
accompanying walks or drives, but also suitable for marking limits, or
for the side borders. In such beds, as well as the others, the tallest
plants will be placed at the back, if the bed is to be seen from one
side only, and the lowest at the front. If it is to be seen from both
sides, then the tallest will stand in the center.
A modification of the ribbon-line, bringing the contrasting colors
together into masses forming circles or other patterns, is known as
"massing," or "massing in color," and sometimes is spoken of as
"carpet-bedding."
Carpet-bedding, however, belongs more properly to a style of bedding in
which plants of dense, low, spreading habit--chiefly foliage plants,
with leaves of different forms and colors--are planted in patterns not
unlike carpets or rugs. It is often necessary to keep the plants sheared
into limits. Carpet-bedding is such a specialized form of plant-growing
that we shall treat of it separately.
Beds containing the large foliage plants, for producing tropical
effects, are composed, in the main, of subjects that are allowed to
develop naturally. In the lower and more orderly massing, the plants are
arranged not only in circles and patterns according to habit and height,
but the selection is such that some or all may be kept within proper
limits by pinching or trimming. Circles or masses composed of flowering
plants usually cannot be cut back at the top, so that the habit of the
plants must be known before planting; and the plants must be placed in
parts of the bed where trimming will not be necessary. They may be
clipped at the sides, however, in case the branches or leaves of one
mass or line in the pattern grow beyond their proper bounds.
The numbers of good annuals and perennials that may be used in
flower-beds are now very large, and one may have a wide choice. Various
lists from which one may choose are given at the end of this chapter;
but special comment may be made on those most suitable for bedding, and
in its modification in ribbon-work and sub-tropical massing.
Bedding effects.
Bedding is ordinarily a temporary species of planting; that is, the bed
is filled anew each year. However, the term may be used to designate a
permanent plantation in which the plants are heavily massed so as to
give one continuous or emphatic display of form or color. Some of the
best permanent bedding masses are made of the various hardy ornamental
grasses, as eulalias, arundo, and the like. The color effects in bedding
may be secured with flowers or with foliage.
Summer bedding is often made by perennial plants that are carried over
from the preceding year, or better, that are propagated for that
particular purpose in February and March. Such plants as geranium,
coleus, alyssum, scarlet salvia, ageratum, and heliotrope may be used
for these beds. It is a common practice to use geranium plants which are
in bloom during the winter for bedding out during the summer, but such
plants are tall and ungainly in form and have expended the greater part
of their energies. It is better to propagate new plants by taking
cuttings or slips late in the winter and setting out young fresh
vigorous subjects. (Page 30.)
Some bedding is very temporary in its effect. Especially is this true
of spring bedding, in which the subjects are tulips, hyacinths,
crocuses, or other early-flowering bulbous plants. In this case, the
ground is usually occupied later in the season by other plants. These
later plants are commonly annuals, the seeds of which are sown amongst
the bulbs as soon as the season is far enough advanced; or the annuals
may be started in boxes and the plants transplanted amongst the bulbs as
soon as the weather is fit.
Many of the low-growing and compact continuous-flowering annuals are
excellent for summer bedding effects. There is a list of some useful
material for this purpose on page 249.
Plants for subtropical effects (Plates IV and V).
The number of plants suitable to produce a semitropical mass or for the
center or back of a group, which may be readily grown from seed, is
limited. Some of the best kinds, are included below.
It will often be worth while to supplement these with others, to be had
at the florists, such as caladiums, screw pines, Ficus elastica,
araucarias, Musa Ensete, palms, dracenas, crotons, and others. Dahlias
and tuberous begonias are also useful. About a pond the papyrus and
lotus may be used.
Practically all the plants used for this style of gardening are liable
to injury from winds, and therefore the beds should be placed in a
protected situation. The palms and some other greenhouse stuff do better
if partially shaded.
In the use of such plants, there are opportunities for the exercise of
the nicest taste. A gross feeder, as the ricinus, in the midst of a bed
of delicate annuals, is quite out of place; and a stately, royal-looking
plant among humbler kinds often makes the latter look common, when if
headed with a chief of their own rank all would appear to the best
advantage.
Some of the plants much used for subtropical bedding, and often started
for that purpose in a greenhouse or coldframe, are:--
Acalypha.
Amarantus.
Aralia Sieboldii (properly Fatsia Japonica).
Bamboos.
Caladium and colocasia.
Canna.
Coxcomb, particularly the new "foliage" kinds.
Grasses, as eulalias, pampas-grass, pennisetums.
Gunnera.
Maize, the striped form.
Ricinus or castor bean.
Scarlet sage.
Wigandia.
Aquatic and bog plants.
Some of the most interesting and ornamental of all plants grow in water
and in wet places. It is possible to make an aquatic flower-garden, and
also to use water and bog plants as a part of the landscape work.
The essential consideration in the growing of aquatics is the making of
the pond. It is possible to grow water-lilies in tubs and half barrels;
but this does not provide sufficient room, and the plant-food is likely
soon to be exhausted and the plants to fail. The small quantity of water
is likely also to become foul.
The best ponds are those made by good mason work, for the water does not
become muddy by working among the plants. In cement ponds it is best to
plant the roots of water-lilies in shallow boxes of earth (1 foot deep
and 3 or 4 feet square), or to hold the earth in mason-work
compartments.
[Illustration X: A shallow lawn pond, containing water-lilies,
variegated sweet flag, iris, and subtropical bedding at the rear;
fountain covered with parrot's feather (Myriophyllum
proserpinacoides).]
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