THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
THE CLASSES OF PLANTS, AND
LISTS - Continued
In Fig. 240 are shown a few designs suitable for carpet-beds. They are
intended merely to be suggestive, not to be copied precisely. The simple
forms and component parts of the more elaborate beds may be arranged
into other designs. Likewise the arrangement of plants, which will be
mentioned as suitable for making a given pattern, is only one of many
possible combinations. The idea is merely to bring out the design
distinctly. To accomplish this it is only necessary to use plants of
contrasting color or growth. To illustrate how varied are the
arrangements that may be used, and how easily different effects are
produced with a single design, several different combinations of color
for the bed No. 1 will be mentioned:
[Illustration: Fig. 240. Designs for carpet-beds.]
No. 1.--Arrangement A: Outside, Alternanthera amœna spectabilis;
inside, Stevia serrata variegata. B: lobelia, Crystal Palace; Mme.
Salleroi geranium. C: lobelia, Crystal Palace; scarlet dwarf phlox. D:
sweet alyssum; petunia, Countess of Ellesmere. E: coleus, Golden Bedder;
Coleus Verschaffeltii. F: Achyranthes Lindeni; yellow dwarf nasturtium.
No. 2.--Outside, red alternanthera; middle, dusty miller; center, pink
geranium.
No. 3.--Outside, Alternanthera aurea nana; middle, Alternanthera amœna
spectabilis; center, Anthemis coronaria.
No. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 12 may each be filled with a single color, or given a
border of suitable plants if the planter so chooses.
No. 9.--Ground, Alternanthera aurea nana; center, Acalypha tricolor;
black dots, scarlet geranium.
No. 10.--Ground of Centaurea gymnocarpa; circle, Achyranthes Lindeni;
cross, Golden coleus.
No. 11.--Border, Oxalis tropæoloides; center, blue heliotrope, blue
ageratum, or Acalypha marginata; cross about the center, Thymus
argenteus, or centaurea; scallop outside the cross, blue lobelia;
corners, inside border, santolina.
Designs 13 and 14 are, in character, somewhat in the style of a
parterre; but instead of the intervening spaces in the bed being
ordinary walks they are of grass. Such beds are of a useful type,
because they may be made large and yet be executed with a comparatively
small number of plants. They are especially suitable for the center of
an open plot of lawn with definite formal boundaries on all sides, such
as walks or drives. Whether they are to be composed of tall-growing or
of low-growing plants will depend upon the distance they are to be from
the observer. For a moderate-sized plot the following plants might
be used:--
No. 13.--Border, red alternanthera; second row, dwarf orange or yellow
nasturtium; third row, Achyranthes Gilsoni, or Acalypha tricolor;
central square, scarlet geraniums, with a border of Centaurea
gymnocarpa; intervening spaces, grass. Instead of the square of
geraniums, a vase might be substituted, or a clump of Salvia splendens.
No. 14.--Composite beds like this and the former are always suggestive.
They contain various features which may readily be recombined into other
patterns. Sometimes it may be convenient to use only portions of the
design. The reader should feel that no arrangement is arbitrary, but
merely a suggestion that he may use with the utmost freedom, only
keeping harmony in view. For No. 14, the following may be an acceptable
planting arrangement: Border, Mme. Salleroi geranium; small dots, dwarf
scarlet tropeolum; diamonds, blue lobelia; crescents, Stevia serrata
variegata; inner border, crimson achyranthes or coleus; loops,
Centaurea gymnocarpa; wedge-shaped portions, scarlet geranium.
No. 15.--Suitable for a corner. Border, red alternanthera; second row,
Alternanthera aurea nana; third row, red alternanthera; center,
Echeveria Californica.
[Illustration: Fig. 241. Carpet-bed for a bay or recession in the border
planting.]
No. 16--Border, crimson alternanthera (another border of yellow
alternanthera might be placed inside of this); ground, Echeveria secunda
glauca; inner border, Oxalis tropæoloides; center, Alternanthera aurea
nana. Or, inner border, Echeveria Californica; center, crimson
alternanthera.
[Illustration: Fig. 242. Another circular carpet-bed.]
No. 17.--Another bed intended to fill an angle. Its curved side will
also fit it for use with a circular design. Border, dwarf blue
ageratum; circle, blue lobelia; ground (3 parts), crimson alternanthera.
Other carpet or mosaic beds (after Long), with the plants indicated, are
shown in Figs. 241, 242.
2. THE ANNUAL PLANTS
The annual flowers of the seedsmen are those that give their best bloom
in the very year in which the seeds are sown. True annuals are those
plants that complete their entire life-cycle in one season. Some of the
so-called annual flowers will continue to bloom the second and third
years, but the bloom is so poor and sparse after the first season that
it does not pay to keep them. Some perennials may be treated as annuals
by starting the seeds early; Chinese pink, pansy and snapdragon
are examples.
The regular biennials may be treated practically as annuals; that is,
seeds may be sown every year, and after the first year, therefore, a
seasonal succession of bloom may be had. Of such are adlumia, Canterbury
bell, lunaria, ipomopsis, Œnothera Lamarckiana; and foxglove, valerian,
and some other perennials would better be treated as biennials.
Most annuals will bloom in central New York if the seeds are sown in the
open ground when the weather becomes thoroughly settled. But there are
some kinds, as the late cosmos and moon-flowers, for which the northern
season is commonly too short to give good bloom unless they are started
very early indoors.
If flowers of any annual are wanted extra early, the seeds should be
started under cover. A greenhouse is not necessary for this purpose,
although best results are to be expected with such a building. The seed
may be sown in boxes, and these boxes then placed in a sheltered
position on the warm side of a building. At night they may be covered
with boards or matting. In very cold "spells" the boxes should be
brought inside. In this simple way seeds may often be started one to
three weeks ahead of the time when they can be sown in the open garden.
Moreover, the plants are likely to receive better care in these boxes,
and therefore to grow more rapidly. Of course, if still earlier results
are desired, the seed should be sown in the kitchen, hotbed, coldframe,
or in a greenhouse. In starting plants ahead of the season, be careful
not to use too deep boxes. The gardener's "flat" may be taken as a
suggestion. Three inches of earth is sufficient, and in some cases (as
when the plants are started late) half this depth is enough.
The difficulty with early sown seedlings is "drawing up," and weakness
from crowding and want of light. This is most liable to occur with
window-grown plants. Vigorous June-sown plants are better than such
weaklings. It must be remembered that very early bloom usually means the
shortening of the season at the other end; this may be remedied to some
extent by making sowings at different times.
The "hardy" annuals are such as develop readily without the aid of
artificial heat. They are commonly sown in May or earlier, directly in
the open ground where they are to grow. Florists often sow certain kinds
in the fall, and winter the young plants in coldframes. They may also be
wintered under a covering of leaves or evergreen boughs. Some of the
hardy annuals (as sweet pea) withstand considerable frost. The
"half-hardy" and "tender" annuals are alike in that they require more
warmth for their germination and growth. The tender kinds are very
quickly sensitive to frost. Both these, like the hardy kinds, may be
sown in the open ground, but not until the weather has become settled
and warm, which for the tender kinds will not commonly be before the
first of June; but the tender kinds, at least, are preferably started in
the house and transplanted to their outdoor beds. Of course, these terms
are wholly relative. What may be a tender annual in Massachusetts may be
a hardy annual or even a perennial in Louisiana.
These terms as ordinarily used in this country refer to the northern
states, or not farther south than middle Atlantic states.
Some familiar examples of hardy annuals are sweet alyssum, ageratum,
calendula, calliopsis, candytuft, Centaurea Cyanus, clarkia, larkspur,
gilia, California poppy, morning-glory, marigold, mignonette, nemophila,
pansy, phlox, pinks, poppies, portulaca, zinnia, sweet pea, scabiosa.
Examples of half-hardy annuals are: China aster, alonsoa, balsam,
petunia, ricinus, stocks, balloon-vine, martynia, salpiglossis,
thunbergia, nasturtium, verbena.
Examples of tender annuals: Amarantus, celosia or coxcomb, cosmos,
cotton, Lobelia Erinus, cobea, gourds, ice-plant, sensitive-plant,
solanums, torenia, and such things as dahlias, caladiums, and acalypha
used for bedding and subtropical effects.
Some annuals do not bear transplanting well; as poppies, bartonia,
Venus' looking-glass, the dwarf convolvulus, lupinus, and malope. It is
best, therefore, to sow them where they are to grow.
Some kinds (as poppies) do not bloom all summer, more especially not if
allowed to produce seed. Of such kinds a second or third sowing at
intervals will provide a succession. Preventing the formation of seeds
prolongs their life and flowering period.
A few of the annuals thrive in partial shade or where they receive
sunshine for half the day; but most of them prefer a sunny situation.
Any good garden soil is suitable for annuals. If not naturally fertile
and friable, it should be made so by the application of well-rotted
stable-manure or humus. The spading should be at least one foot deep.
The upper six inches is then to be given a second turning to pulverize
and mix it. After making the surface fine and smooth the soil should be
pressed down with a board. The seed may now be sprinkled on the soil in
lines or concentric circles, according to the method desired. After
covering the seed, the soil should be again pressed down with a board.
This promotes capillarity, by which the surface of the soil is better
supplied with moisture from below. Always mark with a label the kind and
position of all seed sown.
If the flowers are to be grown about the edges of the lawn, make sure
that the grass roots do not run underneath them and rob them of food and
moisture. It is well to run a sharp spade deep into the ground about the
edges of the bed every two or three weeks for the purpose of cutting off
any grass roots that may have run into the bed. If beds are made in the
turf, see that they are 3 ft. or more wide, so that the grass roots will
not undermine them. Against the shrub borders, this precaution may not
be necessary. In fact, it is desirable that the flowers fill all the
space between the overhanging branches and the sod.
It is surprising how few of the uncommon or little known annuals really
have great merit for general purposes. There is nothing yet to take the
place of the old-time groups, such as amaranths, zinnias, calendulas,
daturas, balsams, annual pinks, candytufts, bachelor's buttons,
wallflowers, larkspurs, petunias, gaillardias, snapdragons, coxcombs,
lobelias, coreopsis or calliopsis, California poppies, four-o'clocks,
sweet sultans, phloxes, mignonettes, scabiosas, nasturtiums, marigolds,
China asters, salpiglossis, nicotianas, pansies, portulacas, castor
beans, poppies, sunflowers, verbenas, stocks, alyssums, and such good
old running plants as scarlet runners, sweet peas, convolvuluses,
ipomeas, tall nasturtiums, balloon vines, cobeas. Of the annual vines of
recent introduction, the Japanese hop has at once taken a prominent
place for the covering of fences and arbors, although it has no floral
beauty to recommend it.
For bold mass-displays of color in the rear parts of the grounds or
along the borders, some of the coarser species are desirable. Good
plants for such use are: sunflower and castor bean for the back rows;
zinnias for bright effects in the scarlets and lilacs; African marigolds
for brilliant yellows; nicotianas for whites. Unfortunately, we have no
robust-growing annuals with good blues. Some of the larkspurs and the
browallias are perhaps the nearest approach to them.
For lower-growing and less gross mass-displays, the following are good:
California poppies for oranges and yellows; sweet sultans for purples,
whites, and pale yellows; petunias for purples, violets, and whites;
larkspurs for blues and violets; bachelor's buttons (or cornflowers) for
blues; calliopsis and coreopsis and calendulas for yellows; gaillardias
for red-yellows and orange-reds; China asters for many colors.
For still less robustness, good mass-displays can be made with the
following: alyssums and candytufts for whites; phloxes for whites and
various pinks and reds; lobelias and browallias for blues; pinks for
whites and various shades of pink; stocks for whites and reds;
wallflowers for brown-yellows; verbenas for many colors.
A garden of pleasant annual flowers is not complete that does not
contain some of the "everlastings" or immortelles. These "paper flowers"
are always interesting to children. They are not so desirable for the
making of "dry bouquets" as for their value as a part of a garden. The
colors are bright, the blooms hold long on the plant, and most of the
kinds are very easy to grow. My favorite groups are the different kinds
of xeranthemums and helichrysums. The globe amaranths, with clover-like
heads (sometimes known as bachelor's buttons), are good old favorites.
Rhodanthes and acrocliniums are also good and reliable.
The ornamental grasses should not be overlooked. They add a note to the
flower-garden and to bouquets that is distinct and can be secured by no
other plants. They are easily grown. Some of the good annual grasses are
Agrostis nebulosa, the brizas, Bromus brizæformis, the species of
eragrostis and pennisetums, and Coix Lachryma as a curiosity. Such
good lawn grasses as arundo, pampas-grass, eulalias, and erianthus are
perennials and are therefore not included in this discussion.
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