THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
THE CLASSES OF PLANTS, AND
LISTS - Continued
Rowan or European mountain ash, Sorbus Aucuparia (Pyrus
Aucuparia).‡
Service-tree, S. domestica.
Fruit handsomer than that of the mountain ash and more persistent; small
tree.
Oak-leaved mountain ash, S. hybrida (S. quercifolia).
Small tree, deserving to be better known.
Bald cypress, Taxodium distichum.*
Not entirely hardy at Lansing, Mich.; often becomes scraggly after
fifteen or twenty years, but a good tree; many cultural forms.
American linden or basswood, Tilia Americana.*†
Very valuable for single trees on large lawns, or for roadsides.
European linden, T. vulgaris and T. platyphyllos (T. Europaea of
nurserymen is probably usually the latter).†
Has the general character of the American basswood.
European silver linden, T. tomentosa and varieties.†
Very handsome; leaves silvery white beneath; among others is a weeping
variety.
American elm, Ulmus Americana.*†
One of the most graceful and variable of trees; useful for many purposes
and a standard street tree.
Cork elm, U. racemosa.* Softer in aspect than the last, and more
picturesque in winter, having prominent ridges of bark on its branches;
slow grower.
Red or slippery elm, U. fulva.* Occasionally useful in a group or
shelter-belt; a stiff grower.
English elm, U. campestris, and Scotch or wych elm, U. scabra (U.
mantana). Often planted, but are inferior to U. Americana for street
planting, although useful in collections. These have many
horticultural forms.
Non-coniferous trees for the South.
Among deciduous trees for the region of Washington and south may be
mentioned: Acer, the American and European species as for the North;
Catalpa bignonioides and especially C. speciosa; celtis; cercis,
both American and Japanese; flowering dogwood, profusely native; white
ash; ginkgo; kœlreuteria; sweet gum (liquidambar); American linden;
tulip tree; magnolias much as for the North; China-berry (Melia
Azedarach); Texas umbrella-tree (var. umbraculiformis of the
preceding); mulberries; oxydendrum; paulownia; oriental plane-tree;
native oaks of the regions; Robinia Pseudacacia; weeping willow;
Sophora Japonica; Sterculia platanifolia; American elm.
Broad-leaved evergreens of real tree size useful for the South may be
found among the cherry laurels, magnolias, and oaks. Among the cherry
laurels are: Portugal laurel (Prunus Lusitanica), English cherry
laurel in several forms (P. Laurocerasus), and the "mock-orange" or
"wild orange" (P. Caroliniana). In magnolia, the splendid M.
grandiflora is everywhere used. In oaks, the live-oak (Quercus
Virginiana, known also as Q. virens and Q. sempervirens) is the
universal species. The cork oak (Q. Suber) is also recommended.
[Illustration XVI: The flower-garden of China asters with border, one
of the dusty millers (Centaurea).]
8. CONIFEROUS EVERGREEN SHRUBS AND TREES
In this country the word "evergreen" is understood to mean coniferous
trees with persistent leaves, as pines, spruces, firs, cedars, junipers,
arborvitæ, retinosporas, and the like. These trees have always been
favorites with plant lovers, as they have very distinctive forms and
other characteristics. Many of them are of the easiest culture.
It is a common notion that, since spruces and other conifers grow so
symmetrically, they will not stand pruning; but this is an error. They
may be pruned with as good effect as other trees, and if they tend to
grow too tall, the leader may be stopped without fear. A new leader will
arise, but in the meantime the upward growth of the tree will be
somewhat checked, and the effect will be to make the tree dense. The
tips of the branches may also be headed in with the same effect. The
beauty of an evergreen lies in its natural form; therefore, it should
not be sheared into unusual shapes, but a gentle trimming back, as I
suggested, will tend to prevent the Norway spruce and others from
growing open and ragged. After the tree attains some age, 4 or 5 in. may
be taken off the ends of the main branches every year or two (in spring
before growth begins) with good results. This slight trimming is
ordinarily done with Waters's long-handled pruning shears.
There is much difference of opinion as to the proper time for the
transplanting of evergreens, which means that there is more than one
season in which they may be moved. It is ordinarily unsafe to transplant
them in the fall in northern climates or bleak situations, since the
evaporation from the foliage during the winter is likely to injure the
plant. The best results are usually secured in spring or summer
planting. In spring they may be moved rather late, just as new growth is
beginning. Some persons also plant them in August or early September, as
the roots secure a hold on the soil before winter. In the Southern
states transplanting may be done at most times of the year, but late
fall and early spring are usually advised.
In transplanting conifers, it is very important that the roots be not
exposed to the sun. They should be moistened and covered with burlaps or
other material. The holes should be ready to receive them. If the trees
are large, or if it has been necessary to trim in the roots, the top
should be cut when the tree is set.
Large evergreens (those 10 ft. and more high) are usually best
transplanted late in winter, at a time when a large ball of earth may be
moved with them. A trench is dug around the tree, it being deepened a
little day by day so that the frost can work into the earth and hold it
in shape. When the ball is thoroughly frozen, it is hoisted on to a
stone-boat or truck (Fig. 148) and moved to its new position.
Perhaps the handsomest of all the native conifers of the northeastern
United States is the ordinary hemlock, or hemlock spruce (the one so
much used for lumber); but it is usually difficult to move. Transplanted
trees from nurseries are usually safest. If the trees are taken from the
wild, they should be selected from open and sunny places.
For neat and compact effects near porches and along walks, the dwarf
retinosporas are very useful.
Most of the pines and spruces are too coarse for planting very close to
the residence. They are better at some distance removed, where they
serve as a background to other planting. If they are wanted for
individual specimens, they should be given plenty of room, so that the
limbs will not be crowded and the tree become misshapen. Whatever else
is done to the spruces and firs, the lower limbs should not be trimmed
up, at least not until the tree has become so old that the lowest
branches die. Some species hold their branches much longer than others.
The oriental spruce (Picea orientalis) is one of the best in this
respect. The occasional slight heading-in, that has been mentioned,
will tend to preserve the lower limbs, and it will not be marked enough
to alter the form of the tree.
The number of excellent coniferous evergreens now offered in the
American trade is large. They are slow of growth and require much room
if good specimens are to be obtained; but if the space can be had and
the proper exposure secured, no trees add greater dignity and
distinction to an estate. Reliable comments on the rarer conifers may be
found in the catalogues of the best nurserymen.