THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
INSTRUCTIONS ON PARTICULAR KINDS - Continued
The true night-blooming cereuses are species of the genus Cereus. The
commonest one is C. nycticalus, but C. grandiflorus, C. triangularis
and others are occasionally seen. These plants all have long rod-like
stems which are cylindrical or angular. These stems often reach a height
of 10 to 30 ft., and they need support. They should be trained along a
pillar or tied to a stake. They are uninteresting leafless things during
a large part of the year; but in midsummer, after they are three or more
years old, they throw out their great tubular flowers, which open at
nightfall and wither and die when the light strikes them next morning.
They are very easily grown, either in pots or planted in the natural
soil in the conservatory. The only special care they need is good
drainage at the roots, so that the soil will not become soggy.
The epiphyllum, or lobster cactus, or crab cactus, is one of the best of
the family, easy of culture. It bears bright-colored blossoms at the end
of each joint. When in flower, which will be in the winter months, it
requires a richer soil than the other cacti. A suitable soil is made of
two-thirds fibrous loam and one third leafmold; usually it is best to
add sand or pulverized brick. In fall and early winter, keep rather dry,
giving more water as the plant comes into bloom.
Opuntias, or prickly pears, are often grown as border plants through the
summer. In fact, all the family may be planted out, and if a number of
kinds are set in a bed together, they make a striking addition to the
garden. Be very careful not to bruise the plants. It is better to plunge
them in the pots than to turn them out of the pots.
Caladium.--Tuberous-rooted, tender perennial plants used for
conservatory decoration, and also for subtropical and bold effects in
the lawn (Plate IV). The plants commonly known under this name are
really colocasias.
The roots should be dormant in the winter, being kept in a warm cellar
or under a greenhouse bench, where they are not liable to frost or
dampness. The roots are usually covered with earth, but they are kept
dry. Early in spring the roots are put into boxes or pots and are
started into growth, so that by the time settled weather comes they will
be 1 or 2 feet high and ready to set directly into soil.
When set out of doors, they should be protected from strong winds, and
from the full glare of direct sunlight. The soil should be rich and
deep, and the plants should have an abundance of water. They do well
about ponds (see Plate X).
Caladiums are most excellent plants for striking effects, especially
against a house, high shrubbery, or other background. If they are
planted by themselves, they should be in clumps rather than scattered as
single specimens, as the effect is better. See that they get a good
start before they are planted in the open ground. As soon as killed
down by frost, dig them, dry the roots of superfluous moisture, and
store till wanted in late winter or spring.
Calceolaria.--The calceolarias are small greenhouse herbs sometimes
used in the window-garden. They are not very satisfactory plants for
window treatment, however, since they suffer from dry atmosphere and
from sudden changes of temperature.
The calceolarias are grown from seeds. If the seeds are sown in early
summer and the young plants are transplanted as they need, flowering
specimens may be had for the late fall and early winter. In the growing
of the young plants, always avoid exposing them to direct sunlight; but
they should be given a place that has an abundance of screened or
tempered light. A new crop of plants should be raised each year.
There is a race of shrubby calceolarias, but it is little known in this
country. One or two species are annuals adaptable to cultivation in the
open garden, and their little ladyslipper-like flowers are attractive.
However, they are of secondary importance as annual garden flowers.
Calla (properly Richardia), Egyptian lily.--The calla is one of
the most satisfactory of winter house-plants, lending itself to various
conditions.
The requirements of the calla are rich soil and an abundance of water,
with the roots confined in as small a space as possible. If a too large
pot is used, the growth of foliage will be very rank, at the expense of
the flowers; but by using a smaller-sized pot and applying liquid
manure, the flowers will be produced freely. A 6-inch pot will be large
enough for all but an exceptionally large bulb or tuber. If desired, a
number of tubers may be grown together in a larger pot. The soil should
be very rich but fibrous--at least one third well-rotted manure will be
none too much, mixed with equal parts of fibrous loam and sharp sand.
The tubers should be planted firmly and the pots set in a cool place to
make roots. After the roots have partially filled the pot, the plant may
be brought into heat and given a sunny position and an abundance of
water. An occasional sponging or washing of the leaves will free them
from dust. No other treatment will be required until the flowers appear,
when liquid manure may be given.
The plant will thrive all the better at this time if the pot is placed
in a saucer of water. In fact, the calla will grow well in an aquarium.
The calla may be grown through the entire year, but it will prove more
satisfactory, both in leaf and flower, if rested through part of the
summer. This may be done by laying the pots on their sides in a dry
shady place under shrubbery, or if in the open slightly covered with
straw or other litter to keep the roots from becoming extremely dry. In
September or October they may be shaken out, cleaning off all the old
soil, and repotted, as already mentioned. The offsets may be taken off
and set in small pots and given a year's growth, resting them the second
year and having them in flower that winter.
The spotted calla has variegated foliage and is a good plant for mixed
collections. This blooms in the spring, which will lengthen the season
of calla bloom. The treatment of this is similar to that of the
common calla.
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