THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
INSTRUCTIONS ON PARTICULAR KINDS - Continued
[Illustration: XVIII. Cornflower or bachelor's button. Centaurea
Cyanus.]
The single varieties may be grown from seed, but the double sorts
should be grown from cuttings of young stems or from division of the
roots. If cuttings are to be made, it will be necessary to start the
roots early, either in a hotbed or house. When the growths have reached
4 or 5 inches, they may be cut from the plant and rooted in sand. Care
should be taken to cut just below a joint, as a cutting made between two
joints will not form tubers. The most rapid method of propagation of
named varieties is to grow from cuttings in this way.
In growing the plants from roots, the best plan is to place the whole
root in gentle heat, covering slightly. When the young growth has
started, the roots may be taken up, divided, and planted out 3 to 4 feet
apart. This plan will insure a plant from each piece of root, whereas if
the roots are divided while dormant, there is danger of not having a bud
at the end of each piece, in which case no growth will start; the roots
are sometimes cut into pieces while dormant, however, but one should be
sure that a piece of old stem with bud is on each piece.
One objection to the old dahlia was its lateness of bloom. But by
starting the roots early in a frame, or in boxes that are covered at
night, the plants may be had in flower several weeks earlier than usual.
They may be started in April, or at least three weeks in advance of
planting time. Little water will be required till they start. When they
begin shooting up, the plants should have the full sun, and air, on all
mild days. They will then make a slow, sturdy growth. All forcing should
be avoided. These plants, set out when there is no longer danger of
frost, and well watered before completely covering the roots, will grow
right on, and often begin blooming in July.
Dormant roots may be set out in May. The roots, unless small, should be
divided before planting, as a single strong root is usually better than
a whole clump. The roots of all but the Dwarf should be set about 3 feet
apart, in rows. In poor soils none but the first class will need stakes.
The dahlia flourishes best in a deep, loose, moist soil; very good
results can be had on sandy soil, provided plant-food and moisture are
furnished. Clay should be avoided. If the ground is too strong, they
will probably bloom too late for the northern latitudes.
If the plants are to be grown without stakes, the center of each plant
should be pinched out after making two or three joints. By doing this
the lateral branches will start near the ground and be stiff enough to
withstand the winds. In most home gardens the plants are allowed to
reach their full height, and are tied to stakes if necessary. The tall
kinds reach a height of 5 to 8 ft.
Dahlias are very susceptible to frost. After the first frost, lift the
roots, let them dry in the sun, shake off the dirt, trim off tops and
broken parts, and store them in a cellar, as for potatoes. They may be
placed in barrels of sand, if the open cellar is not usable. Cannas may
be stored in the same place.
The tree dahlia (D. excelsa, but cultivated as D. arborea) is grown
more or less far South and in California. It has not been much improved.
Ferns.--The native ferns transplant easily to the garden, and they
make an attractive addition to the side of a house, or as an admixture
in a hardy border. The ostrich, cinnamon, and royal ferns are the best
subjects. Give all outdoor ferns a place that is protected from winds,
otherwise they will shrivel and perhaps die. Screen them from the hot
sun, or give them the shady side of the building. See that the soil is
uniformly moist, and that it does not get too hot. Mulch with leafmold
in the fall. It is not difficult to colonize many of the native ferns in
shady and protected places where trees do not sap all the strength from
the ground.
Probably the one fern grown most extensively as a house-plant is the
small-leaved maidenhair fern (or Adiantum gracillimum). This and other
species are among the finest of house plants, when sufficient moisture
can be given. They make fine specimens as well as serving the purpose of
greenery for cut flowers. Other species often grown for house plants are
A. cuneatum and A. Capillus-Veneris. All these do well in a mixture
of fibrous sod, loam, and sand, with ample drainage material. They may
be divided if an increase is wanted.
Another fern for house culture is Nephrolepsis exaltata. This is no
doubt the most easily grown of the list, flourishing in a sitting-room.
A variety of N. exaltata, called the Boston fern, is a decided
addition to this group, having a drooping habit, covering the pot and
making a fine stand or bracket plant; and there are now several other
forms of it suitable for the best window-gardens.
Several species of pteris, especially P. serrulata, are valuable
house ferns but require a warmer place than those mentioned above. They
will also thrive better in a shady or ill-lighted corner.
Perfect drainage and care in watering have more to do with the
successful growing of ferns than any special mixture of soils. If the
drainage material in the bottom of the pot or box is sufficient, there
is little danger of overwatering; but water-logged soil is always to be
avoided. Do not use clay soils. Ferns need protection from the direct
sunshine, and also a moist atmosphere. They thrive well in a close glass
box, or window-garden, if the conditions can be kept equable.
Freesia.--One of the best and most easily handled tender
winter-flowering bulbs; height 12 or 15 inches. The white form (Freesia
refracta alba) is the best.
The white or yellowish bell-shaped flowers of freesia are produced on
slender stalks just above the foliage, to the number of six to eight in
a cluster. They are very fragrant, and last for a considerable time when
picked. The bulbs are small, and look as though they could not produce a
growth of foliage and flowers, but even the smallest mature bulb will
prove satisfactory. Several bulbs should be planted together in a pot,
box, or pan, in October, if wanted for the holidays, or later if wanted
at Easter. The plants bloom from ten to twelve weeks from planting,
under ordinary care.
No special treatment is required; keep the plants cool and moist through
the growing season. The soil should contain a little sand mixed with
fibrous loam, and the pot should be well drained. After flowering,
gradually withhold water and the tops will die down, after which the
roots may be shaken out and rested until time to plant in fall. Care
should be taken to keep them perfectly dry.
The bulbs increase rapidly from offsets. Plants may also be grown from
seed, which should be sown as soon as ripe, giving blooming plants the
second or third year.
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