THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
INSTRUCTIONS ON PARTICULAR KINDS - Continued
Gloxinia.--Choice greenhouse tuberous-rooted, spring and
summer-blooming perennials, sometimes seen in window-gardens, but really
not adapted to them, although some skillful house-gardeners grow them
successfully.
Gloxinias must have a uniform moist and warm atmosphere and protection
from the sun. They will not stand abuse or varying conditions.
Propagated often by leaf-cuttings, which should give flowering plants in
one year. From the leaf, inserted half its length in the soil (or
sometimes only the petiole inserted) a tuber arises. This tuber, after
resting until midwinter or later, is planted, and flowering plants
soon arise.
Gloxinias also grow readily from seeds, which may be germinated in a
temperature of about 70°. Flowering plants may be had in August if seeds
are sown in late winter, say in early February. This is the usual
method. After the bloom is past, the tuber is partially dried off and
kept dormant till the following season. It will usually show signs of
activity in February or March, when it may be shaken out of the old
earth and a little water may then be applied and the amount increased
till the plant is in bloom. The same tubers may be bloomed
several times.
Success in the growing of gloxinias is largely a matter of proper
watering. Keep the dormant tuber just dry enough to prevent shriveling,
never trying to force it ahead of its time. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Protect from direct sunlight. Protect from draughts on the plants.
Grevillea.--The "she oak," very graceful greenhouse plant, suitable
also for house culture. The plants grow freely from seed, and until they
become too large are as decorative as ferns. Grevilleas are really
trees, and are valuable in greenhouses and rooms only in their young
state. They withstand much abuse. They are now very popular as
jardinière subjects. Seeds sown in spring will give handsome plants by
the next winter. Discard the plants as soon as they become ragged.
Hollyhocks.--These old garden favorites have been neglected of late
years, primarily because the hollyhock rust has been so prevalent,
destroying the plants or making them unsightly.
Their culture is very simple. The seed is usually sown in July or
August, and the plants set where wanted the following spring. They will
bloom the same year in which they are transplanted--the year following
the seed-sowing. New plants should be set every two years, as the old
crowns are likely to rot or die after the first flowering, or at least
to become weak.
Hyacinths (see Bulbs) are popular spring-flowering bulbs.
Hyacinths are hardy, but they are often used as window or greenhouse
plants. They are easy to grow and very satisfactory (Fig. 262).
For winter flowering, the bulbs should be procured early in the fall,
potted in October in soil composed of loam, leafmold, and sand. If
ordinary flower-pots are used, put in the bottom a few pieces of broken
pots, charcoal, or small stones for drainage; then fill the pot with
dirt, so that when the bulb is planted, the top will be on a level with
the rim of the pot. Fill in around the bulb with soil, leaving just the
tip showing. These pots of bulbs should be placed in a cold pit, cellar
or on the shady side of a building. In all cases, plunge the pot in some
cool material (as cinders). Before the weather becomes cold enough to
freeze a crust on the ground, the pots should have a protection of straw
or leaves to keep the bulbs from severe freezing. In about six to eight
weeks the bulbs should have made roots enough to grow the plant, and the
pots may be placed in a cool room for a short time. When the plants have
started into growth, they may be placed in a warmer situation. Watering
should be carefully attended to from this time, and when the plant is in
bloom, the pot may be set in a saucer or other shallow dish containing
water. After flowering, the bulbs may be ripened by gradually
withholding water until the leaves die. They may then be planted out in
the border, where they will bloom each spring for a number of years, but
will never prove satisfactory for forcing again.
The open-ground culture of hyacinths is the same as for tulips and other
Holland bulbs.
The hyacinth is the most popular of the Dutch bulbs for growing in vases
of water. The narcissus may be grown in water, and do just as well, but
it is not as attractive in glasses as the hyacinth. Glasses for
hyacinths may be had of florists who deal in supplies, and in various
shapes and colors. The usual form is tall and narrow, with a cup-like
mouth to receive the bulb. They are filled with water, so that it will
just reach the base of the bulb when placed in position in the cup or
shoulder above. The vessels of dark-colored glass are preferable to
those of clear glass, as roots prefer darkness. When the glasses have
been filled, they are set away in a cool, dark place, where roots will
form, as in potted bulbs. Results are usually secured earlier in water
than in soil. To keep the water sweet, a few lumps of charcoal may be
put in the glass. As the water evaporates, add fresh; add enough so that
it runs over, and thereby renews that in the glass. Do not disturb the
roots by taking out the bulb.
Iris includes many handsome perennials, of which the blue flag is
familiar to every old-fashioned garden. They are favorites everywhere,
for their brilliant spring and summer bloom; and they are easy to grow.
Most irises thrive best in a rather moist soil, and some of them may be
colonized in the water in margins of ponds.
Gardeners usually divide them into two sections--the tuberous-rooted or
rhizomatous, and the bulbous. A third division--the fibrous-rooted--is
sometimes made.
The common and most serviceable species belong to the tuberous-rooted
section. Here is the beautiful and varied Japanese iris, Iris
lœvigata (or I. Kœmpferi), which is among the most deserving of all
hardy perennials. Most of these irises need no special care. They are
propagated by division of the rootstocks. Plant the pieces one foot
apart if a mass effect is desired. When the plants begin to fail, dig
them up, divide the roots, discard the old parts, and grow a new stock,
as before. The Japanese iris needs much water and a very rich soil.
Readily grown from seeds, giving bloom the second year. I Susiana, of
this section, is one of the oddest of irises, but it is not quite hardy
in the North.
Of the bulbous section, most species are not hardy far North. The bulbs
should be taken up and replanted every two or three years. The Persian
and Spanish irises belong here. The bulbs give rise to but a
single stem.
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