THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
INSTRUCTIONS ON PARTICULAR KINDS - Continued
Tuberose (properly tuber-ose, not tube-rose, from its specific
name, Polianthes tuberosa).--This plant, with its tall spikes of waxen
and fragrant white flowers, is well known in the middle latitudes, but
usually requires more heat and a longer season than are commonly present
in the most northern states.
The tuberose is a strong feeder, and loves warmth, plenty of water while
growing, and a deep, rich, and well-drained soil. The bulbs may be set
in the garden or border the last of May or in June, covering them about
1 inch deep. Preparatory to planting, the old dead roots at the base of
the bulb should be cut away and the pips or young bulbs about the sides
removed. After keeping them till their scars are dried over, these pips
may be planted 5 or 6 inches apart in drills, and with good soil and
cultivation they will make blooming bulbs for the following year.
Before planting the large bulbs, it may be well to examine the points,
to determine whether they are likely to bloom. The tuberose blooms but
once. If there is a hard, woody piece of old stem in the midst of the
dry scales at the apex of the bulb, it has bloomed, and is of no value
except for producing pips. Likewise if, instead of a solid core, there
is a brownish, dry cavity extending from the tip down into the middle of
the bulb, the heart has rotted or dried up, and the bulb is worthless as
far as blooming is concerned.
Bulbs of blooming size set in the border in June flower toward the close
of September. They may be made to flower three or four weeks sooner by
starting them early in some warm place, where they may be given a
temperature of about 60° to 70°. Prepare the bulbs as above, and place
them with their tips just above the surface in about 3-or 4-inch pots,
in light sandy soil. Water them thoroughly, afterwards sparingly, till
the leaves have made considerable growth. These plants may be turned
out into the open ground the last of May or in June, and will probably
flower in early September.
[Illustration: XX. A simple but effective window-box, containing
geraniums, petunias, verbenas, heliotrope, and vines.]
In the northern states, if planted in the border they will not start
into growth until the ground has become thoroughly warm,--usually after
the middle of June,--making the season before frost too short for their
perfect growth and flower. If any danger of fall frost is feared, they
may be lifted into pots or boxes and taken into the house, when they
will bloom without a check. As with other bulbs, a sandy soil will suit.
Just before frost dig up the bulbs, cut off the tops to within 2 inches
of the apex of the bulb. They may then be placed in shallow boxes and
left out in the sun and air for a week or more, to cure. Each evening,
if the nights are cold, they should be removed to some room where the
temperature will not fall below 40°. When the outer scales have become
dry, the remaining soil may be shaken off and the bulbs stored away in
shallow boxes for the winter. They keep best in a temperature of 45° to
50°. It should never fall below 40°.
The Dwarf Pearl, originating in 1870, has long been popular, and is
still so with many. But others have come to prefer the old, tall kind,
the flowers of which, even if not so large, are perfect in form and seem
to open better.
Tulips are undoubtedly the most prized of all early spring bulbs.
They are hardy and easy to grow. They also bloom well in winter in a
sunny climate. The garden bed will last several years if well cared for,
but most satisfactory bloom is secured if the old bulbs are taken up
every two or three years and replanted, all the inferior ones being cast
aside. When the stock begins to run out, buy anew. The old stock, if not
entirely spent, may be planted in the shrubbery or perennial borders.
September is the best time for planting tulips, but as the beds are
usually occupied at this time, planting is commonly postponed till
October of November. For garden culture the single early tulips are the
best. There are excellent early double-flowered varieties. Some prefer
the double, as their flowers last longer. Late tulips are gorgeous, but
occupy the beds too long in the spring. While tulips are hardy, they are
benefited by a winter mulch.
In working out design patterns, the utmost care should be used to have
the lines and curves uniform, which is only to be secured by marking out
the design, and careful planting. Formal planting is, however, by no
means necessary for pleasing effects. Borders, lines, and masses of
single colors, or groups of mixed colors which harmonize, are always in
order and pleasing. Clear colors are preferable to neutral tints. As
varieties vary in height and season of blooming, only named varieties
should be ordered if uniform bedding effects are desired. See pp. 286
and 345; Fig. 255.
Violet.--While the culture of violets as house-plants rarely proves
successful, there is no reason why a good supply may not be had
elsewhere through the greater part of the winter and the spring months.
A sheltered location being selected, young plants from runners may be
set in August or September. Have the ground fertile and well drained.
These plants will make fine crowns by December, and often will bloom
before weather sufficiently cold to freeze them.
To have flowers through the winter, it will be necessary to afford some
protection. This may best be accomplished by building a frame of boards
large enough to cover the plants, making the frame in the same way as
for a hotbed, 4 to 6 inches higher at the back than the front. Cover the
frame with sash or boards, and as the weather becomes severe, mats or
straw should be placed over and around the frame to protect the plants
from freezing. Whenever the weather will permit, the covering should be
removed and air admitted, but no harm will come if the frames are not
disturbed for several weeks. Much sunlight and a high temperature
through the middle of winter are to be avoided, for if the plants are
stimulated, a shorter period of bloom will result. In April the frame
may be removed, the plants yielding the later part of the crop without
protection.
Violets belong with the "cool" plants of florists. When well hardened
off, considerable frost does not harm them. They should always be kept
stocky. Start a new lot from runner-plants each year. They thrive in a
temperature of 55° to 65°. Pages 190, 206.
Wax-plant.--The wax-plant, or hoya, is one of the commonest of
window-garden plants, and yet it is one that house-gardeners usually
have difficulty in flowering. However, it is one of the easiest plants
to manage if a person understands its nature.
It is naturally a summer-blooming plant, and should rest in winter. In
the winter, keep it just alive in a cool and rather dry place. If the
temperature does not go above 50° Fahr., so much the better; neither
should it go much lower. In late winter or spring, the plant is brought
out to warm temperature, given water, and started into growth. The old
flower-stems should not be cut off, since new flowers come from them as
well as from the new wood. When it is brought out to be started into
growth, it may be repotted, sometimes into a size larger pot, but always
with more or less fresh earth. The plant should increase in value each
year. In conservatories, it is sometimes planted out in the ground and
allowed to run over a wall, in which case it will reach a height of
many feet.
note: growing tuberose
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