flowers and flower gardens 39

FLOWERS AND FLOWER GARDENS BY DAVID LESTER RICHARDSON and PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS AND USEFUL INFORMATION RESPECTING THE ANGLO-INDIAN FLOWER-GARDEN

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Home Gardening Manual
Table of Contents
Gardening
chapter01 point of view what a garden is
chapter02 1 gardening plans and theory
chapter02 2 gardening plans and theory
chapter02 3 gardening plans and theory
chapter02 4 gardening plans and theory
chapter02 5 gardening plans and theory
chapter02 6 gardening plans and theory
chapter02 7 gardening plans and theory
chapter02 8 gardening plans and theory
chapter02 9 gardening plans and theory
chapter03 1 execution of landscape features
chapter03 2 execution of landscape features
chapter03 3 execution of landscape features
chapter03 4 execution of landscape features
chapter03 5 execution of landscape features
chapter04 1 handling the land
chapter04 2 handling the land
chapter04 3 handling the land
chapter04 4 handling the land
chapter04 5 handling the land
chapter05 1 handling the plants
chapter05 2 handling the plants
chapter05 3 handling the plants
chapter05 4 handling the plants
chapter05 5 handling the plants
chapter05 6 handling the plants
chapter05 7 handling the plants
chapter05 8 handling the plants
chapter05 9 handling the plants
chapter06 1 protecting plants from pests
chapter06 2 protecting plants from pests
chapter06 3 protecting plants from pests
chapter06 4 protecting plants from pests
chapter06 5 protecting plants from pests
chapter06 6 protecting plants from pests
chapter06 7 protecting plants from pests
chapter06 8 protecting plants from pests
chapter06 9 protecting plants from pests
chapter07 01 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 02 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 03 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 04 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 05 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 06 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 07 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 08 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 09 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 10 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 11 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 12 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 13 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 14 growing ornamental plants classes
chapter07 15 growing ornamental plants classes

The color is of great importance to the perfection of the flower; of those that are of one color this should be clear, unbroken, and distinct; but when mixed hues are sought, each color should be clearly and distinctly defined without any mingling of shades, or running into each other. Further, the flowers ought to be erect so as to exhibit the blossom in the fullest manner to the view. The most usual colors of the imported double Dahlias, met with in India, are crimson, scarlet, orange, purple, and white. Amongst those raised from seed from. Dheyra Dhoon[137] of the double kind, there are of single colors, crimson, deep crimson approaching to maroon, deep lilac, pale lilac, violet, pink, light purple, canary color, yellow, red, and white; and of mixed colors, white and pink, red and yellow, and orange and white: the single ones of good star shaped flowers and even petals being of crimson, puce, lilac, pale lilac, white, and orange. Those from Nagpore seed have yielded, double flowers of deep crimson, lilac, and pale purple, amongst single colors; lilac and blue, and red and yellow of mixed shades; and single flowered, crimson, and orange, with mixed colors of lilac and yellow, and lilac and white.

Propagation--is by dividing the roots, by cuttings, by suckers, or by seed; the latter is generally resorted to, where new varieties are desired. Mr. George A. Lake, in an article on this subject (Gardeners' Magazine, 1833) says: "I speak advisedly, and from, experience, when I assert that plants raised from cuttings do not produce equally perfect flowers, in regard to size, form, and fulness, with those produced by plants grown from division of tubers;" and he more fully shews in another part of the same paper, that this appears altogether conformable to reason, as the cutting must necessarily for a long period want that store of starch, which is heaped up in the full grown tuber for the nutriment of the plant. This objection however might be met by not allowing the cuttings to flower in the season when they are struck.

To those who are curious in the cultivation of this handsome species, it may be well to know how to secure varieties, especially of mixed colors; for this purpose it is necessary to cover the blossoms intended for fecundation with fine gauze tied firmly to the foot stalk, and when it expands take the pollen from the male flowers with a camel's hair pencil, and touch with it each floret of the intended bearing flower, tying the gauze again over it, and keeping it on until the petals are withered. The operation requires to be performed two or three successive days, as the florets do not expand together.

Soil &c. They thrive best in a rich loam, mixed with sand; but should not be repeated too often on the same spot, as they exhaust the soil considerably.

Culture. The Dahlia requires an open, airy position unsheltered by trees or walls, the plants should be put out where they are to blossom, immediately on the cessation of the rains, at a distance of three feet apart, either in rows or in clumps, as they make a handsome show in a mass; and as they grow should be trimmed from the lower shoots, to about a foot in height, and either tied carefully to a stake, or, what is better, surrounded by a square or circular trellis, about five feet in height. As the buds form they should be trimmed off, so as to leave but one on each stalk, this being the only method by which full, large, and perfectly shaped blossoms are obtained. Some people take up the tubers every year in February or March, but this is unnecessary. The plants blossom in November and December in the greatest perfection, but may with attention be continued from the beginning of October to the end of February.

Those plants which are left in the ground during the whole year should have their roots opened immediately on the close of the rains, the superabundant or decayed tubers, and all suckers being removed, and fresh earth filled in. The earth should always be heaped up high around the stems, and it is a good plan to surround each plant with a small trench to be filled daily with water so as to keep the stem and leaves dry.

APPENDIX.


THE FLOWER GARDEN IN INDIA.

The following practical directions and useful information respecting the Indian Flower-Garden, are extracted from the late Mr. Speede's New Indian Gardener, with the kind permission of the publishers, Messrs. Thacker Spink and Company of Calcutta.

THE SOIL.

So far as practicable, the soil should be renewed every year, by turning in vegetable mould, river sand, and well rotted manure to the depth of about a foot; and every second or third year the perennials should be taken up, and reduced, when a greater proportion of manure may be added, or what is yet better, the whole of the old earth removed, and new mould substituted.

It used to be supposed that the only time for sowing annuals or other plants, (in Bengal) is the beginning of the cold weather, but although this is the case with a great number of this class of plants, it is a popular error to think it applies to all, since there are many that grow more luxuriantly if sown at other periods. The Pink, for instance, may be sown at any time, Sweet William thrives best if sown in March or April, the variegated and light colored Larkspurs should not be put in until December, the Dahlia germinates most successfully in the rains, and the beautiful class of Zinnias are never seen to perfection unless sown in June.

This is the more deserving of attention, as it holds out the prospect of maintaining our Indian flower gardens, in life and beauty, throughout the whole year, instead of during the confined period hitherto attempted.

The several classes of flowering plants are divided into PERENNIAL, BIENNIAL, and ANNUAL.

PERENNIALS.

The HERON'S BILL, Erodium; the STORK'S BILL, Pelargonium; and the CRANE'S BILL, Geranium; all popularly known under the common designation of Geranium, which gives name to the family, are well known, and are favorite plants, of which but few of the numerous varieties are found in this country.

Of the first of these there are about five and twenty fixed species, besides a vast number of varieties; of which there are here found only the following:--

The Flesh-colored Heron's bill, E. incarnatum, is a pretty plant of about six inches high, flowering in the hot weather, with flesh-colored blossoms, but apt to become rather straggling.

Of the hundred and ninety species of the second class, independently of their varieties, there are few indeed that have found their way here, only thirteen, most of which are but rarely met with.

The Rose-colored Stork's bill, P. roseum, is tuberous rooted, and in April yields pretty pink flowers.

The Brick-colored Stork's bill, P. lateritium, affords red flowers in March and April.

The Botany Bay Stork's bill, P. Australe, is rare, but may be made to give a pretty red flower in March.

The Common horse-shoe Stork's bill, P. zonale, is often seen, and yields its scarlet blossoms freely in April.

The Scarlet-flowered Stork's bill, P. inquinans, affords a very fine flower towards the latter end of the cold weather, and approaching to the hot; it requires protection from the rains, as it is naturally of a succulent nature, and will rot at the joints if the roots become at all sodden: many people lay the pots down on their sides to prevent this, which is tolerably successful to their preservation.

The Sweet-Scented Stork's bill, P. odoratissimum, with pink flowers, but it does not blossom freely, and the branches are apt to grow long and straggling.

The Cut-leaved Stork's bill, P. incisum, has small flowers, the petals being long and thin, and the flowers which appear in April are white, marked with pink.

The Ivy-leaved Stork's bill, P. lateripes, has not been known to yield flowers in this country.

The Rose-scented Stork's bill, P. capitatum, the odour of the leaves is very pleasant, but it is very difficult to force into blossom.

The Ternate Stork's bill, P. ternatum, has variegated pink flowers in April.

The Oak-leaved Stork's bill, P. quercifolium, is much esteemed for the beauty of its leaves, but has not been known to blossom in this climate.

The Tooth-leaved Stork's bill, P. denticulatum, is not a free flowerer, but may with care be made to bloom in April.

The Lemon, or Citron-scented Stork's bill, P. gratum, grows freely, and has a pretty appearance, but does not blossom.

Of the second class of these plants the forty-eight species have only three representatives.

The Aconite-leaved Crane's bill, G. aconiti-folium, is a pretty plant, but rare, yielding its pale blue flowers with difficulty.

The Wallich's Crane's bill G. Wallichianum, indigenous to Nepal, having pale pink blossoms and rather pretty foliage, flowering in March and April; but requiring protection in the succeeding hot weather, and the beginning of the rains, as it is very susceptible of heat, or excess of moisture.

Propagation--may be effected by seed to multiply, or produce fresh varieties, but the ordinary mode of increasing the different sorts is by cuttings, no plant growing more readily by this mode. These should be taken off at a joint where the wood is ripening, at which point the root fibres are formed, and put into a pot with a compost of one part garden mould, one part vegetable mould, and one part sand, and then kept moderately moist, in the shade, until they have formed strong root fibres, when they may be planted out. The best method is to plant each cutting in a separate pot of the smallest size. The germinating of the seeds will be greatly promoted by sinking the pots three parts of their depth in a hot bed, keeping them moist and shaded and until they germinate.

Soil, &c. A rich garden mould, composed of light loam, rather sandy than otherwise, with very rotten dung, is desirable for this shrub.

Culture. Most kinds are rapid and luxurious growers, and it is necessary to pay them constant attention in pruning or nipping the extremities of the shoots, or they will soon become ill-formed and straggling. This is particularly requisite during the rains, when heat and moisture combine to increase their growth to excess; allowing them to enjoy the full influence of the sun during the whole of the cold weather, and part of the hot. At the close of the rains, the plants had better be put out into the open ground, and closely pruned, the shoots taken off affording an ample supply of cuttings for multiplying the plants; this putting out will cause them to throw up strong healthy shoots and rich blossoms; but as the hot weather approaches, or in the beginning of March, they must be re-placed in moderate sized pots, with a compost similar to that required for cuttings and placed in the plant shed, as before described. The earth in the pots should be covered with pebbles, or pounded brick of moderate size, which prevents the accumulation of moss or fungi. Geraniums should at no time be over watered, and must at all seasons be allowed a free ventilation.

There is no doubt that if visitors from this to the Cape, would pay a little attention to the subject, the varieties might be greatly increased, and that without much trouble, as many kinds may be produced freely by seed, if brought to the country fresh, and sown immediately on arrival; young plants also in well glazed cases would not take up much space in some of the large vessels coming from thence.

The ANEMONE has numerous varieties, and is, in England, a very favorite flower, but although A. cernua is a native of Japan, and many varieties are indigenous to the Cape, it is very rare here.

The Double anemone is the most prized, but there are several Single and Half double kinds which are very handsome. The stem of a good anemone should be eight or nine inches in height, with a strong upright stalk. The flower ought not to be less than seven inches in circumference, the outer row of petals being well rounded, flat, and expanding at the base, turning up with a full rounded edge, so as to form a well shaped cup, within which, in the double kinds, should arise a large group of long small petals reverted from the centre, and regularly overlapping each other; the colors clear, each shade being distinct in such as are variegated.

The Garden, or Star Wind flower, A. hortensis, Boostan afrooz, is another variety, found in Persia, and brought thence to Upper India, of a bright scarlet color; a blue variety has also blossomed in Calcutta, and was exhibited at the Show of February, 1847, by Mrs. Macleod, to whom Floriculture is indebted for the introduction of many beautiful exotics heretofore new to India. But it is to be hoped this handsome species of flowering plants will soon be more extensively found under cultivation.

Propagation. Seed can hardly be expected to succeed in this country, as even in Europe it fails of germinating; for if not sown immediately that it is ripe, the length of journey or voyage would inevitably destroy its power of producing. Offsets of the tubers therefore are the only means that are left, and these should not be replanted until they have been a sufficient time out of the ground, say a month or so, to become hardened, nor should they be put into the earth until they have dried, or the whole offset will rot by exposure of the newly fractured side to the moisture of the earth. The tubers should be selected which are plump and firm, as well as of moderate size, the larger ones being generally hollow; these may be obtained in good order from Hobart Town.

Soil, &c. A strong rich loamy soil is preferable, having a considerable portion of well rotted cow-dung, with a little leaf mould, dug to a depth of two feet, and the beds not raised too high, as it is desirable to preserve moisture in the subsoil; if in pots, this is effected by keeping a saucer of water under them continually, the pot must however be deep, or the fibres will have too much wet; an open airy situation is desirable.

Culture. When the plant appears above ground the earth must be pressed well down around the root, as the crowns and tubers are injured by exposure to dry weather, and the plants should be sheltered from the heat of the sun, but not so as to confine the air; they require the morning and evening sun to shine on them, particularly the former.

The IRIS is a handsome plant, attractive alike from the variety and the beauty of its blossoms; some of them are also used medicinally. All varieties produce abundance of seed, in which form the plant might with great care be introduced into this country.

The Florence Iris, I. florentina, Ueersa, is a large variety, growing some two feet in height, the flower being white, and produced in the hot weather.

The Persian Iris I. persica, Hoobur, is esteemed not only for its handsome blue and purple flowers, but also for its fragrance, blossoming in the latter part of the cold weather; one variety has blue and yellow blossoms.

The Chinese Iris, I. chinensis, Soosun peelgoosh, in a small sized variety, but has very pretty blue and purple flowers in the beginning of the hot weather.

Propagation. Besides seed, which should be sown in drills, at the close of the rains, in a sandy soil, it may be produced by offsets.

Soil, &c. Almost any kind of soil suits the Iris, but the best flowers are obtained from a mixture of sandy loam, with leaf mould, the Persian kind requiring a larger proportion of sand.

Culture. Little after culture is required, except keeping the beds clear from weeds, and occasionally loosening the earth. But the roots must be taken, up every two, or at most three years, and replanted, after having been kept to harden for a month or six weeks; the proper season for doing this being when the leaves decay after blossoming.

The TUBEROSE, Polianthes, is well deserving of culture, but it is not by any means a rare plant, and like many indigenous odoriferous flowers, has rather too strong an odour to be borne near at hand, and it is considered unwholesome in a room.

The Common Tuberose, P. tuberosa, Chubugulshubboo, being a native of India thrives in almost any soil, and requires no cultivation: it is multiplied by dividing the roots. It flowers at all times of the year in bunches of white flowers with long sepals.

The Double Tuberose, P. florepleno, is very rich in appearance, and of more delicate fragrance, although still too powerful for the room. Crows are great destroyers of the blossoms, which they appear fond of pecking. This variety is more rare, and the best specimens have been obtained from Hobart Town. It is rather more delicate and requires more attention in culture than the indigenous variety, and should be earthed up, so as to prevent water lodging around the stem.

The LOBELIA is a brilliant class of flowers which may be greatly improved by careful cultivation.

The Splendid Lobelia, L. splendens, is found in many gardens, and is a showy scarlet flower, well worthy of culture.

The Pyramidal Lobelia, L. pyramidalis, is a native of Nepal, and is a modest pretty flower, of a purple color.

Propagation--is best performed by offsets, suckers, or cuttings, but seeds produce good strong plants, which may with care, be made to improve.

Soil, &c.--A moist, sandy soil is requisite for them, the small varieties especially delighting in wet ground. Some few of this family are annuals, and the roots of no varieties should remain more than three years without renewal, as the blossoms are apt to deteriorate; they all flower during the rains.

The PITCAIRNIA is a very handsome species, having long narrow leaves, with, spined edges and throwing up blossoms in upright spines.

The Long Stamened Pitcairnia, P. staminea, is a splendid scarlet flower, lasting long in blossom, which, appears in July or August, and continues till December.

The Scarlet Pitcairnia, P. bromeliaefolia, is also a fine rich scarlet flower, but blossoming somewhat sooner, and may be made to continue about a month later.

Propagation--is by dividing the roots, or by suckers, which is best performed at the close of the rains.

Soil, &c. A sandy peat is the favorite soil of this plant, which should be kept very moist.

The DAHLIA, Dahlia; a few years since an attempt was made to rename this beautiful and extensive family and to call it Georgina, but it failed, and it is still better known throughout the world by its old name than the new. It was long supposed that the Dahlia was only found indigenous in Mexico, but Captain Kirke some few years back brought to the notice of the Horticultural Society, that it was to be met with in great abundance in Dheyra Dhoon, producing many varieties both single and double; and he has from time to time sent down quantities of seed, which have greatly assisted its increase in all parts of India. It has also been found in Nagpore.

A good Dahlia is judged of by its form, size, and color. In respect to the first of these its form should be perfectly round, without any inequalities of projecting points of the petals, or being notched, or irregular. These should also be so far revolute that the side view should exhibit a perfect semicircle in its outline, and the eye or prolific disc, in the centre should be entirely concealed. There has been recently introduced into this country a new variety, all the petals of which are quilled, which has a very handsome appearance.

In size although of small estimation if the other qualities are defective, it is yet of some consideration, but the larger flowers are apt to be wanting in that perfect hemispherical form that is so much admired.

The color is of great importance to the perfection of the flower; of those that are of one color this should be clear, unbroken, and distinct; but when mixed hues are sought, each color should be clearly and distinctly defined without any mingling of shades, or running into each other. Further, the flowers ought to be erect so as to exhibit the blossom in the fullest manner to the view. The most usual colors of the imported double Dahlias, met with in India, are crimson, scarlet, orange, purple, and white. Amongst those raised from seed from. Dheyra Dhoon[137] of the double kind, there are of single colors, crimson, deep crimson approaching to maroon, deep lilac, pale lilac, violet, pink, light purple, canary color, yellow, red, and white; and of mixed colors, white and pink, red and yellow, and orange and white: the single ones of good star shaped flowers and even petals being of crimson, puce, lilac, pale lilac, white, and orange. Those from Nagpore seed have yielded, double flowers of deep crimson, lilac, and pale purple, amongst single colors; lilac and blue, and red and yellow of mixed shades; and single flowered, crimson, and orange, with mixed colors of lilac and yellow, and lilac and white.

Propagation--is by dividing the roots, by cuttings, by suckers, or by seed; the latter is generally resorted to, where new varieties are desired. Mr. George A. Lake, in an article on this subject (Gardeners' Magazine, 1833) says: "I speak advisedly, and from, experience, when I assert that plants raised from cuttings do not produce equally perfect flowers, in regard to size, form, and fulness, with those produced by plants grown from division of tubers;" and he more fully shews in another part of the same paper, that this appears altogether conformable to reason, as the cutting must necessarily for a long period want that store of starch, which is heaped up in the full grown tuber for the nutriment of the plant. This objection however might be met by not allowing the cuttings to flower in the season when they are struck.

To those who are curious in the cultivation of this handsome species, it may be well to know how to secure varieties, especially of mixed colors; for this purpose it is necessary to cover the blossoms intended for fecundation with fine gauze tied firmly to the foot stalk, and when it expands take the pollen from the male flowers with a camel's hair pencil, and touch with it each floret of the intended bearing flower, tying the gauze again over it, and keeping it on until the petals are withered. The operation requires to be performed two or three successive days, as the florets do not expand together.

Soil &c. They thrive best in a rich loam, mixed with sand; but should not be repeated too often on the same spot, as they exhaust the soil considerably.

Culture. The Dahlia requires an open, airy position unsheltered by trees or walls, the plants should be put out where they are to blossom, immediately on the cessation of the rains, at a distance of three feet apart, either in rows or in clumps, as they make a handsome show in a mass; and as they grow should be trimmed from the lower shoots, to about a foot in height, and either tied carefully to a stake, or, what is better, surrounded by a square or circular trellis, about five feet in height. As the buds form they should be trimmed off, so as to leave but one on each stalk, this being the only method by which full, large, and perfectly shaped blossoms are obtained. Some people take up the tubers every year in February or March, but this is unnecessary. The plants blossom in November and December in the greatest perfection, but may with attention be continued from the beginning of October to the end of February.

Those plants which are left in the ground during the whole year should have their roots opened immediately on the close of the rains, the superabundant or decayed tubers, and all suckers being removed, and fresh earth filled in. The earth should always be heaped up high around the stems, and it is a good plan to surround each plant with a small trench to be filled daily with water so as to keep the stem and leaves dry.

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chapter07 22 growing ornamental plants classes
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chapter08 01 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 02 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 03 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 04 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 05 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 06 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 07 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 08 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 09 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 10 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 11 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 12 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 13 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 14 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 15 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 16 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 17 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 18 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 19 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 20 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter08 21 growing ornamental plants instructions
chapter09 1 growing fruit plants fruits
chapter09 2 growing fruit plants fruits
chapter09 3 growing fruit plants fruits
chapter09 4 growing fruit plants fruits
chapter09 5 growing fruit plants fruits
chapter09 6 growing fruit plants fruits
chapter09 7 growing fruit plants fruits
chapter09 8 growing fruit plants fruits
chapter09 9 growing fruit plants fruits
chapter10 1 growing vegetables plants vegetable gardening
chapter10 2 growing vegetables plants vegetable gardening
chapter10 3 growing vegetables plants vegetable gardening
chapter10 4 growing vegetables plants vegetable gardening
chapter10 5 growing vegetables plants vegetable gardening
chapter10 6 growing vegetables plants vegetable gardening
chapter10 7 growing vegetables plants vegetable gardening
chapter10 8 growing vegetables plants vegetable gardening
chapter10 9 growing vegetables plants vegetable gardening
chapter11 1 gardening seasonal reminders
chapter11 2 gardening seasonal reminders
chapter11 3 gardening seasonal reminders
chapter11 4 gardening seasonal reminders
chapter11 5 gardening seasonal reminders
chapter11 6 gardening seasonal reminders
chapter11 7 gardening seasonal reminders
chapter11 8 gardening seasonal reminders
chapter11 9 gardening seasonal reminders

home vegetable gardening

home vegetable gardening contents

INTRODUCTION

WHY YOU SHOULD GARDEN

REQUISITES OF THE HOME VEGETABLE GARDEN

THE PLANTING PLAN

IMPLEMENTS AND THEIR USES

MANURES AND FERTILIZERS

THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION

STARTING THE PLANTS

SOWING AND PLANTING

THE CULTIVATION OF VEGETABLES

THE VEGETABLES AND THEIR SPECIAL NEEDS - Root Crops

THE VEGETABLES AND THEIR SPECIAL NEEDS - Leaf Crops

THE VEGETABLES AND THEIR SPECIAL NEEDS - Fruit Crops

BEST VARIETIES OF THE GARDEN VEGETABLES

INSECTS AND DISEASE, AND METHODS OF FIGHTING THEM

HARVESTING AND STORING

THE VARIETIES OF POME AND STONE FRUITS

PLANTING; CULTIVATION; FILLER CROPS

PRUNING, SPRAYING, HARVESTING

BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS

A CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS

Home Vegetable Gardening CONCLUSION

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my summer in a garden 19

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